Fig fortune measured in friendships

Figs are not going to replace the Psa-stricken kiwifruit industry in the Bay of Plenty, says hobby grower John Dean.

The retired farmer grows more than 70 different fig varieties on his Katikati block as a trial for the Tree Crops Association.

“They’re a boutique crop, but there is money to be made in figs,” says John.
“I really think the opportunity is to supply direct to the restaurant trade so they can be fresh.” New Zealand’s fig export market largely goes to America – which only imports figs from New Zealand in the southern hemisphere.
“Because we don’t have the bugs and beetles that they don’t want in the United States.”
Trays of 15 figs can sell for between $35 and $55.
“At present, figs need to be air freighted to get to America on time – we need to improve the preserving systems.”
Traditionally, green-skinned figs are found in New Zealand, but John lists black-skinned varieties as his favourites.
“I feel that New Zealanders haven’t yet had the joy of the very best figs to eat.
“The Americans’ favourite variety is called Mission.
“My favourite one so far is called Celeste and Jim Peeles’, who’s retired from the local nursery, his favourite is Malta.
“All of these are black-skin figs.”
John has loved figs since he was a boy. He started growing them when he started work in a nursery in the 1970s.
He now has more than 70 varieties growing on his Katikati block.
He credits his collection to Eric Cairns from the Tree Croppers Association, who has imported some different fig varieties and has identified more than 140 different fig varieties in New Zealand.
“They’re an easy crop – they don’t need fertiliser,” says John, “and the frost doesn’t affect them at all”.
“Figs can stand snow in winter – in Italy, during the second world war, some of the prisoners of war only survived because of figs. That was their staple food.
“I’ve seen fig trees successfully crop down south in Cromwell; there are horses for courses.
“It’s nice to get a fig that suits your taste and your district.”
The first figs come in at Christmas and go right through to June, depending on the variety.
“The real trick with figs is bird proofing,” says John.
“I’d be interested to know if anyone has an answer to bird protection – I’d like to know the perfect system.
“You can pick them just prior to the birds attacking; although they will get a few if you don’t mind sharing them.
“If you went to a 40ha block you’d benefit – they’d be too many figs for the birds to eat.”
John says the key when growing a fig tree is to keep the surface roots covered.
“They have surface roots, which are your fruiting roots, and if you get a drying out of that surface you won’t get fruit production.”
So the big thing is mulching and pruning and the trees need to be pruned four times a year, says John.
“It takes about two-three years for a tree to crop, but generally, like most fruit trees, four or five until you get a good crop off them.
“You can speed up their growing or you can hold it back.”
There are still a few tricks of the trade John says he’s still to learn.
“At this stage I only know how to get a breba crop biannually.”
An early crop is always going to create a premium, but John is not in it for the money.
“I’m not there for financial return. I’m not out to grow figs commercially.
“The huge benefit for me is the friendships I’ve made.
“I’m only too happy to give people cuttings – which I do every winter. I want to encourage people to have the benefits.”
When he shifted to Katikati, John got a plant given back to him from cuttings he had previously given away from his first ever fig tree – which was sold to him as a Brown Turkey variety, however, it turned out to be an unknown variety and was subsequently named John Dean – after John himself.
“A lot of figs that came to New Zealand were with people from the Dalmatia area and Italy, and that Mediterranean area was the home of figs of course,” says John.
“Once we can go back there we’ll find the correct names.
“At the moment, we can’t afford it, but in the future, with DNA, we’ll be able to find out the names of these figs and the name John Dean will disappear.”
The figs were an easy plant to bring out for the early settlers to New Zealand as they transported well.
“They were very poor those people when they first came out. They brought grapes and figs with them as they were an easily transportable thing.”
The early settlers to Katikati even had figs named after them, including Mrs Stewert and her daughter, Fay Stewert.
“There is nothing new about figs, but I think they’re one of the most fabulous things of modern culture.
“There is nothing nicer than a fig just opened up and put in the oven and drizzled with maple syrup as a dessert.”
John says there is a move back towards people wanting to grow their own fruit and vegetables at home.
“I think there has been such a resurgence in people wanting better health and wanting to grow better foods.
“If you look at figs as far as nutrition is concerned, they are a high quality food.”